new owner
Re: new owner
seems like you were not tired the last time. Good progress, in Germany you probably would still fight with bureaucracy to get a permission to destroy a valuable spiders biotope.
Some comments:
- You did a good job cleaning the engine. I am surprised that the material is not that rotten as I have guessed from the first pictures. With some additional work, it could look great again.
- The "OKI heat-sink thingy’s" are the CDI units. The tar-like insulation may melt (due to some electrics poblem). However they may still work, just put back that tar. But once molten it won't get solid enough any more and will get out again. One solution is to cover the tar with some epoxy, at least that's what I did and it works since many years.
- You found a very easy way to get the carbs out (with the airbox and all removed). If you can, re-install them early again. Carb removal/installation is a hard job with the air chamber installed.
- The carbs have to line up. Probably someone got wrong boots. Be careful here, they are different for carb types (diameter) as well as between models (length). I think there was "460"(for RC05) or "425"(for RC03) stamped on them. Or something else, I think Robert should now ?
- The "cam-switch thingy" is your neutral light switch. It switches to ground like the oil pressure switch.
Maybe you should already start to soak the aluminium spacer on the long top horizontal rear engine bolt. I would be surprised if it would move without trouble on the bolt. One may get the engine out anyway (depending on the orientation of the bolt). I have a spare frame with this bolt blocked by this spacer, no chance to get it out without destroying something. Check also rear axis aluminium spacer for the same trouble.
Some comments:
- You did a good job cleaning the engine. I am surprised that the material is not that rotten as I have guessed from the first pictures. With some additional work, it could look great again.
- The "OKI heat-sink thingy’s" are the CDI units. The tar-like insulation may melt (due to some electrics poblem). However they may still work, just put back that tar. But once molten it won't get solid enough any more and will get out again. One solution is to cover the tar with some epoxy, at least that's what I did and it works since many years.
- You found a very easy way to get the carbs out (with the airbox and all removed). If you can, re-install them early again. Carb removal/installation is a hard job with the air chamber installed.
- The carbs have to line up. Probably someone got wrong boots. Be careful here, they are different for carb types (diameter) as well as between models (length). I think there was "460"(for RC05) or "425"(for RC03) stamped on them. Or something else, I think Robert should now ?
- The "cam-switch thingy" is your neutral light switch. It switches to ground like the oil pressure switch.
Maybe you should already start to soak the aluminium spacer on the long top horizontal rear engine bolt. I would be surprised if it would move without trouble on the bolt. One may get the engine out anyway (depending on the orientation of the bolt). I have a spare frame with this bolt blocked by this spacer, no chance to get it out without destroying something. Check also rear axis aluminium spacer for the same trouble.
Wow, Volker, mighty impressed, you've read it all The spiders all left home a long time ago - only the fossilised remains of a few (and their cobwebs) left now
Neutral light - that makes sense, thanks for that. And the CDI's. I know a man (with 2 CB550's incidentally) who's very good with electrics and wiring. I'll have a serious think about re-doing the wiring, or at least some of it.
And yes, I'll certainly start 'preparing' the long spacer/engine mount bolt.
Thanks for the feedback. When I get into details (carbs for example) I'll break up the dialogue into separate web pages to keep the strip/clean/rebuild of those in one place.
It has all come apart quite easy so far. Really enjoying myself, especially as I sit at a computer most days so it's great to get out in the garage and some fresh air when I can
regards, Phil
Neutral light - that makes sense, thanks for that. And the CDI's. I know a man (with 2 CB550's incidentally) who's very good with electrics and wiring. I'll have a serious think about re-doing the wiring, or at least some of it.
And yes, I'll certainly start 'preparing' the long spacer/engine mount bolt.
Thanks for the feedback. When I get into details (carbs for example) I'll break up the dialogue into separate web pages to keep the strip/clean/rebuild of those in one place.
It has all come apart quite easy so far. Really enjoying myself, especially as I sit at a computer most days so it's great to get out in the garage and some fresh air when I can
regards, Phil
Re: new owner
I am interested as it is a quite demanding task with a bike which has no special classic status besides looking very classic. It is a good sign that everything came out easy so far, so probably only the surface suffered and the bike was serviced not too bad the most time before.
Doing something with your hands is really a good balancing to computer work. If it would not be much easier to earn my money with my brain, I would prefer doing some craftsmen work. Well, as I only have old things I never run out of this kind of work even without an actual project .
In case you don't have a manual, Ibsen provided a link to an online manual in the "Replacing the cam chain tensioner" thread.
Doing something with your hands is really a good balancing to computer work. If it would not be much easier to earn my money with my brain, I would prefer doing some craftsmen work. Well, as I only have old things I never run out of this kind of work even without an actual project .
In case you don't have a manual, Ibsen provided a link to an online manual in the "Replacing the cam chain tensioner" thread.
Thanks Volker. Whoever did look after the bike previously has taken care, as many of the bolts have copper-grease on them. Not many people bother to do that, but this chap did, so it shows some mechanical consideration. I think it mainly looked so tatty simply for standing idle for about 3 years (although the engine was last run about a year ago).
So yes, basically under the cobwebs it's a sound bike, and the more I strip down the more pleased I am with what I've got. No major worries have been uncovered yet.
I have a manual thanks, but have also linked to a few online ones. So far most of the strip down has been fairly obvious from past experience of bikes and cars, but I've no doubt I'll need to refer to the manuals soon.
regards, Phil
So yes, basically under the cobwebs it's a sound bike, and the more I strip down the more pleased I am with what I've got. No major worries have been uncovered yet.
I have a manual thanks, but have also linked to a few online ones. So far most of the strip down has been fairly obvious from past experience of bikes and cars, but I've no doubt I'll need to refer to the manuals soon.
regards, Phil
quick update...
Some bits are away for plating/chroming at the moment
everything that's being painted is ready to go.
Other bits are being cleaned, polished/greased (delete as applicable )
Next target is to have a clean, shiny rolling frame back together. As usual updates are being logged at http://uk.geocities.com/cb650@btinternet.com/
regards, Phil
Some bits are away for plating/chroming at the moment
everything that's being painted is ready to go.
Other bits are being cleaned, polished/greased (delete as applicable )
Next target is to have a clean, shiny rolling frame back together. As usual updates are being logged at http://uk.geocities.com/cb650@btinternet.com/
regards, Phil
Well it's back on it's wheels and the engine is painted too Head is next to come off, then engine can go back in thr frame whilst I strip and check over the top end. Latest page at http://uk.geocities.com/cb650@btinternet.com
regards, Phil
regards, Phil
The painting was a lot easier than I thought it would be. The pictures do not tell exactly the whole story because right between some of the fins the paint finish isn't great, but I really could not find any way of cleaning them more.
The spray paint took really well to the aluminium, and you could spray quite heavily without it running, plus it dried really quick. Overall I'm very pleased. I think with the cylinder head done, and the side cases polished up (one has been 80% done and looks beautiful), the engine will look great.
Thanks for the kind words,
keep looking for more pics (cyl head removal next)
regards, Phil
The spray paint took really well to the aluminium, and you could spray quite heavily without it running, plus it dried really quick. Overall I'm very pleased. I think with the cylinder head done, and the side cases polished up (one has been 80% done and looks beautiful), the engine will look great.
Thanks for the kind words,
keep looking for more pics (cyl head removal next)
regards, Phil
I have a spare engine to replace my 100000km original one but it does not look very pretty. Painting would help but I worry a bit on thermal consequences and, moreover how to get this done with an acceptable result. I have a compressor but no painting equipment so far. But enough cylinders with fins to practice.
Maybe it is time to learn this also. Probably surface preparation is the most important thing? Meanwhile I have many things worth to get a new outfit. Any links to instructions for an ambitious, unexperienced beginner are welcome.
Maybe it is time to learn this also. Probably surface preparation is the most important thing? Meanwhile I have many things worth to get a new outfit. Any links to instructions for an ambitious, unexperienced beginner are welcome.
Volker_P wrote:I have a spare engine to replace my 100000km original one but it does not look very pretty. Painting would help but I worry a bit on thermal consequences and, moreover how to get this done with an acceptable result. I have a compressor but no painting equipment so far. But enough cylinders with fins to practice.
Maybe it is time to learn this also. Probably surface preparation is the most important thing? Meanwhile I have many things worth to get a new outfit. Any links to instructions for an ambitious, unexperienced beginner are welcome.
Hi Volker, most of my information comes from sohc4.net forum, here... http://www.sohc4.us/forums/
Do a search on 'engine paint' and you'll be reading for hours, so put the coffee on first
I just cleaned mine as well as I could with de-greaser, and brushed well with a wire brush to remove as much loose paint as I could. Then plenty of degreaser, soapy water, repeat again and again seemed to be the answer. The hardest part is actually getting in between the fins properly as the dirt won't just wash away, it needs brushing. As with everything, preparation is what matters.
regards, Phil
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