new owner

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pae
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Postby pae » Sat Jun 16, 2007 12:06 pm

Oh, am I pleased with the latest update...

remember where we started >>>>

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And now we have this >>>>

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grimz
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Postby grimz » Sat Jun 16, 2007 12:22 pm

pae wrote:Oh, am I pleased with the latest update...

remember where we started >>>>

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And now we have this >>>>

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dam! all coffee'd out.gotta love it.
that is lookin good.keep up the killer work and that will be one kick ass ride

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Ibsen
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Postby Ibsen » Sat Jun 16, 2007 2:08 pm

I like it. :D
You have done an impressive job with that bike. 8)

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Chris
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Postby Chris » Sat Jun 16, 2007 8:07 pm

AWESOME!
1980 CB650c

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Volker_P
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Postby Volker_P » Mon Jun 18, 2007 1:12 am

Very good job. Really looks fine. :D
To your decal problem: As you write they were intended to be stuck on a wet film, are they those water decals similar like also used for plastic model sets?
In this case, how did you fix them without getting them wet? This kind of decals would be hard to get off in one part. The may be also quite susceptible to lacquer solvent. It's been a long time, but I do not remember the clear parts ever being shaded before and getting clear from the use of water later.

pae
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Postby pae » Mon Jun 18, 2007 2:43 am

Hi Volker, the decals are VERY sticky. I understood that you use a film of soapy water so that you have time to align the decal (sticker) and then squeegee out the water once it's in place.

I didn't do this because it sounded more difficult than just being careful in the first place, and I was happy that I'd get it aligned straghtaway, which I did. Now though it doesn't look great and it is stuck really firmly.

regards, Phil

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Volker_P
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Postby Volker_P » Mon Jun 18, 2007 3:16 am

Hi Phil,
I see, so this is not the kind of decals I had in mind.

pae
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Postby pae » Sat Sep 08, 2007 1:36 pm

Hi all, been busy today, all my little 'tidy-up' jobs which never seem to look much at the time are being fitted now - which is always satisfying. Here we are now...

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Ibsen
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Postby Ibsen » Mon Sep 10, 2007 3:14 pm

Very nice. 8)

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Chris
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Postby Chris » Wed Oct 03, 2007 10:43 am

Great job so far!
1980 CB650c

pae
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Postby pae » Sun Dec 09, 2007 7:25 am

Thought I'd update with a few pics of recent acquisitions and rebuilding...

regards, Phil

Guiliari (ebay bargain :D)

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Carbs

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pae
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Postby pae » Wed Feb 13, 2008 12:27 pm

Hi everyone,

I've suddenly realised that I'm perilously close to starting up the project - it'll be the first time it's run in about 4 1/2 years (15 months in my ownership). Just to re-cap, I know of no history of problems, and since I've had it I've stripped the head and re-ground the valve seats, and stripped/cleaned/re-built the carbs. Otherwise it's in the same state that it last ran (as far as I know)

What's the checklist for a safe first run, both prior to firing it up and once it's fired up? Hoping it does of course!

I'm thinking of taking plugs out first and just spinning it over on the starter to get some oil around it, and get the fuel coming through. Then test the sparks with the plugs out.

Then firing it up and running it for a minute or so, switch off and check for leaks. If all OK, run it up again and check again for leaks, check the exhausts are heating evenly. What revs shall I take it up to? By the way, it'll all be done static, the rebuild is not advanced far enough to ride the bike yet.

Should I check timing before I tune the carbs, or the other way around. I'm assuming that both will be 'close enough in tune' to at least let the engine run fairly evenly.

thanks all, Phil

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Volker_P
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Postby Volker_P » Thu Feb 14, 2008 2:24 am

Hi Phil,
good to hear of your progress.
For reanimation precautions have a look on what Terry and myself wrote in the "Bringing bike back to life" thread started by old gringo. Don't try to start if you don't get the oil light off with the starter. It's only 0.5-0.7bars to switch it off and it should be very easy to achieve with cold oil.
Before doing anything with carbs (except cleaning) ignition and valve settings should be allright. As you rebuilt the valve seats, keep an eye on your valve settings again after the engine first got hot. Cam chain might need to be tensioned again, too. If the carb piston gaps are at optically equal level, they should not be too much out of sychronization. Before trying precise carb synchronization, get new spark plugs.
Check exhaust heating from the beginning on. Don't worry when it starts on two or three only for the first half minute or so. While turning through before starting, leave the petcock still closed. Full oil pressure is produced at about 3.5-4k /min, so that's what you need for your leak test. More makes no sense as the meaning of trying that without load is quite limited and the engine still is not really hot during such a short test run and will not like it.
Concntrate on mechanical noises that sound suspicious and don't hope too much that they vanish without further care. A certain clutch rattling is normal and can be quite heavy when it starts at two only and some ticking of the valves may also occur. But that's already the list of harmless noises as far as I remember.
Good luck!

pae
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Re: new owner

Postby pae » Sun Apr 20, 2008 12:34 pm

Update!

It's taken me a few weeks to get back onto the bike, but I managed to fire it up today. It's not firing on No.2 but I only ran it for a very short while, so maybe it just needs to warm up. There was a good spark there before I started, so that's OK.

The carbs were overflowing but I reset the float heights and they're OK.

Also, there is oil leaking out from the very outer-most rocker housing bolts - the ones outboard of the camshaft ends. Should they have seals under the heads? The manual doesn't show any and I don't remember there being any when I took it apart, but there's quite a bit of oil which seems to be coming up the bolt shank and out under the head.

Phil

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Volker_P
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Re: new owner

Postby Volker_P » Tue Apr 22, 2008 1:37 am

Floats are often not tight at the beginning but seat themselves after a short time of running. My latest experience of that fact was yesterday with a lawn-mower I used for the first time since long. :)
There are several bolts which should have copper washers including the outermost you mention. In the scheme below these bolts with washers are marked with an "A".
Keep us update!
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