Progress so far

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Well i finally got a pic of the new project. So far I have replaced both front and rear tubes, replaced the battery, light bulbs, and spark plugs, rebuilt the carbs (TWICE) Changed the oil (TWICE) trying to clean out all of the impurities. Now waiting on the stator brushes to come in the mail so I can see if she is gonna be road worthy. I rattle canned the tank and side covers with a metallic blue to see if its gonne fit the bike. I kinda like it. Next tasks in the future will be to possibly to a ring change to see if it helps compression, replace plates in the clutch,and then its off to the building process by bobbing and hard tailing the rear but I'm going to try and keep the sissy bar and back seat somhow for my youngest son to ride with me.

Any ideas or suggestions on the build is welcome.

[Kick-N-Go]

Any ideas or suggestions on the build is welcome.

After having rebuilt the Carburetors twice, I would suspect the Tank may need a Cleaning and be a partial culprit in your dilemma.

[Volker_P]

..., rebuilt the carbs (TWICE) ...

I agree that is an indication to have a look inside your tank.

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Instead of editing post I'll add it here. I have throughly flush the tank, removed the rear shocks, and started wire brushing the spokes last night until the storms came in. Gonna try and get 2 pieces of flatcar today for the rear struts and start looking for a write-up on how to replace the front fork seals. They seem to lose compression overnight so anyone want to sling a link myway would be awesome.

[Volker_P]

Even if tank flushing did not give much dirt, an inline filter might be a good idea. Meanwhile you know about the pain getting the carbs out. No real need to recess that.

Bobbed tail with sissy bar? Well, a question of taste...

My understanding is that you just plan going up and down the road a bit with your son. Otherwise I'd assume that a hard tail is not really what you like to have when riding with a passenger.

For the engine I would get it together to run acceptable on all four and do an extended turn at changing revs and loads. Often the engine runs much better after that.
Then fill up oil and do another turn like that and see from compression and oil consumption if you really still want to go into the engine. Considerable oil consumption may also result from worn valve stem seals (but don't try to change the valve guide O-rings then, too).

[Ouch]

This is not to discourage from hardtailing it AT ALL....just do the homework on the ride before hacking off and later will be regreted.

Once you hack, it is hard to go back!

[Volker_P]

True, one could try first with stiff rods bolted instead of the shocks to get an impression.

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My last two bikes have been hardtails so I'm very aware of the experience of peeing blood after a 200 mile ride. This time I'm installing a seat equipped with springs si the rude shouldn't be as rough. As for the passenger seat, I'm in the process of building a removable spring equipped seat for him. But first I've got to the the bike back on the road by purchasing a new set of brushes for the stator and doing a plug/wire change along with clutch repair. I hope it's just the cable but have got another clutch basket on order from eBay just in case.

[Volker_P]

All right, so it looks like you know what you are going to do there.

In case you should run out of clutch cable adjustment range, there is a basic adjustment for the clutch beneath the center circular clutch cover plug. Please refer to section 3-17 of the manual linked below for more details.

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Just to give an update,
I have cut the baffles off, installed some pods, replaced the brushes, installed a new choke cable, and installed an online fuel filter. Surprisingly, the bike runs well with the stock jets as long as I choke the carbs around 1/4 of the way. I'm still having issues with the rpms climbing above 5500 as well as a delayed throttle response. One reason I believe is because I'm almost certain that only 3 cylinders are working properly. My #4 cylinder's spark plug is caked with oil and the exhaust is colder. Possibly the rings are shot but I'm hoping to hold off until this winter until a rebuild.
One question I have you guys. When re- installing the rotor I forgot which wire went to which side. I know it has a black and white wire. Are these able to be switch or are they designated to one brush? Lol I guess I should have paid more attention when removing.

Also, I'm starting to hear a slap in the bottom end. Would this be caused by a wore out cam chain tensioner. If so, is this a repair that a newbie can accomplish?

[Volker_P]

As the alternator does 3 phase AC, the direction of the exciter field does not really play a role. So I guess mixing up the black and white cable does not really matter. But measure the charging voltage just to be sure that the regulator is not irritated.

I would not be too surprised that the engine won't run great with the choke partly pulled to compensate for too lean jetting. Check out if #4 idle or even main jet has possibly fallen out.

A bottom slap at very low rpm is typical and nothing to worry. Especially if it does not run permanently on all four. I assume that this might be oscillations of the primary cam chain, but no confirmation so far. In this case, carb synchronization may help to reduce it a bit, but it won't vanish completely. But don't try a vacuum synchronization until it runs reliably on all four.

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I have found a website to purchase the jets and shims. Hoping to get them in this weekend. Going to pick up a set of wires and plugs as well to see itf it helps. My #4 cylinder is firing but definitley not like it should. Im certain that the rings are shot so I'm hoping to put back the funds for a top end gasket kit and new rings as well.

Is their anything else that I may need to look into replacing or upgrading while I have the top end tore apart?
Does anyone know of a good write up on top end rebuild? I would really like to do this project myself, simply because I enjoy tinkering and it will give me the oppertunity to learn more about my bike.


Thanks for all the helpful tips so far. This website has been a big help on furnishing me the information I have needed to get my bike this far along.

[Volker_P]

A really leaky intake valve stem seal may cause oil in cylinder #4 as well. I am not sure if the head oil leak may leak also to the inside that much, but that might be another option for oil there.
I'd propose to verify valve settings and do a compression check then.

For a head job it is advantageous to clean up everything before you open any cover. Especially the heads of the inner head bolts are often beneath a lot of sand and small stones that prevent getting your socket sitting correctly and/or sand may fall right down into the threads as you pull out the bolts. May end up in stripped threads etc. So blow that stuff out or use a high pressure cleaner there.
Another crucial item is to have a small enough torque wrench and follow the stepwise pattern for the head cover as well as for the head bolts. Threads are very susceptible.
Some head gasket sets contain eight O-rings for the valve seats, too. But leave the valve seats alone! In contrast valve stem seals should be replaced.

Don't hesitate to spend most of the time on cleaning things. This is often crucial to avoid damage or to detect defective parts that need replacement.