Work cost estimate

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Arch
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Joined: Sat Aug 09, 2008 3:06 pm

Work cost estimate

Postby Arch » Thu Jul 30, 2009 6:22 pm

Having worked my way through a number of projects on my bike (79) in the year since I got it, I'm not feeling enthusiastic about the biggest one left which is a cylinder hone and ring job. I'm probably going to take it to a local independent bike shop and I wondered what any of you have for experience by way of the cost I should expect for this job.

Thanks

Arch

Pinhead
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Re: Work cost estimate

Postby Pinhead » Thu Jul 30, 2009 10:19 pm

That's a good question and I'm in the same position. I'll be watching this thread. :)

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Volker_P
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Re: Work cost estimate

Postby Volker_P » Fri Jul 31, 2009 2:03 am

Just by chance, I asked at a shop (in Germany) yesterday:
bore/hone: 40Euros
piston: 60-70Euros (two oversized exist: 0.25mm and 0.5mm)
piston rings: 60-70Euros
main or rod bearing halves: 10Euros (complete set means 18 of them)
piston bolts etc. extra
Original Honda parts (you also could get them yourself), prizes if you bring the cylinders unmounted and clean :?
Possibly a useful house number for you, too.
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Arch
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Re: Work cost estimate

Postby Arch » Sat Aug 01, 2009 4:40 pm

The thing is, Volker, if I could get the cylinders unmounted and clean, I might as well buy an inexpensive honing tool and do the job myself. I might still. Those prices seem very good. I'm going to head out this week and ask around, with the Honda dealership being the last resort.

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Chris
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Re: Work cost estimate

Postby Chris » Mon Aug 17, 2009 9:24 am

An alternative may be to find a spare engine that you could rebuild taking all the time you and the shop may need and then do a swap. I keep a spare that I found on eBay for $15(US) and a segway into Kentucky.

If by 'inexpensive honing tool' you mean a ball hone, you need to be aware that those will follow any contours in the cylinder. A well worn cylinder wall will have an hourglass shape to it that cannot be straightened with this type of tool. It's great for getting the finish needed for a new set of rings, but it won't straighten the walls. A machine shop would be best IMO. Disassemble the engine yourself and measure the bore in several places to see if this hourglass condition exists and then go from there. Just something to think about.
1980 CB650c

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Volker_P
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Re: Work cost estimate

Postby Volker_P » Tue Aug 18, 2009 2:43 am

I'd really never figured out but I'd rather expect a football than a hourglass shape. Do you really have less wear at the level of the highest piston velocity?
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Arch
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Re: Work cost estimate

Postby Arch » Tue Aug 18, 2009 12:25 pm

Chris wrote:An alternative may be to find a spare engine that you could rebuild taking all the time you and the shop may need and then do a swap. I keep a spare that I found on eBay for $15(US) and a segway into Kentucky.

If by 'inexpensive honing tool' you mean a ball hone, you need to be aware that those will follow any contours in the cylinder. A well worn cylinder wall will have an hourglass shape to it that cannot be straightened with this type of tool. It's great for getting the finish needed for a new set of rings, but it won't straighten the walls. A machine shop would be best IMO. Disassemble the engine yourself and measure the bore in several places to see if this hourglass condition exists and then go from there. Just something to think about.

Good advice about the spare engine, Chris. I got a very good looking new block and pistons off eBay (paid probably too much for it, as I always do). It's ready to go on, but things are delayed since I sheared off one of the head bolts. Managed to extract the stub this morning, as there was about 3/16 of an inch sticking out, which proved to be enough to get a bolt extractor to grip onto. Nowhere local has the bolts on hand though, so now I'm waiting.

Meanwhile, how worried should I be about condensation in the crankcase? I've got it covered with plastic sheeting and duct tape. Is that sufficient protection if it takes, say, ten days for my head bolt to show up?

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Volker_P
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Re: Work cost estimate

Postby Volker_P » Wed Aug 19, 2009 1:20 am

At least you got the stub out. Use the time of waiting to clean out the other threads, too.
If you are not on a boat house or in a rain forest, don't worry about ten days with open crankcase. I usually put paper in the openings but rather to avoid dust and particles falling in than for humidity.
Cosky's great (free) online manual: http://cosky0.tripod.com

forum links to common technical issues

If you really like this site and you would not like to see it vanish soon, have a look there: Urgent: Future of HondaCB650.com Forum

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Chris
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Re: Work cost estimate

Postby Chris » Thu Aug 20, 2009 6:04 pm

Volker_P wrote:I'd really never figured out but I'd rather expect a football than a hourglass shape. Do you really have less wear at the level of the highest piston velocity?


That's what they taught me in school, Volker. But I just searched for an illustration to be sure. I found one with a short explanation at http://www.abbysenior.com/mechanics/short.htm

Image

I was thinking it was because of the connecting rod swinging from side to side as it follows the crankshaft, but the oiling explanation makes sense too.
1980 CB650c

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Volker_P
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Re: Work cost estimate

Postby Volker_P » Tue Aug 25, 2009 2:45 am

Thanks for the info. I support the "less oil when up"-explanation as something caused by the connection rod should not have circular symmetry.
Cosky's great (free) online manual: http://cosky0.tripod.com

forum links to common technical issues

If you really like this site and you would not like to see it vanish soon, have a look there: Urgent: Future of HondaCB650.com Forum


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