I'm losing my nerve...

[DammitDan]

I'm getting disgruntled. I got the bike running again (after 6 months of rebuilding) but it's leaking oil from what looks like the left reservior between the block and head, it's running like crap, I have yet to have rebuilt the front forks and change the tires, it's not getting hot on pipe #1, and it's leaking gas from the carbs like a sieve but only when it's running (and it's not the floats sticking... It's dribbling, not gushing).

On top of that, it looks like I may have stripped out spark plug #3. This is after waiting for 6 months to find a new head because I had stripped out the plug on #1. So, to say the least I am getting extremely tired of this bike. I've had it for 2 years and it's only run well for about 2 months of those 2 years. I'm seriously considering selling the thing, but I know I'll never ever get back hardly the cash that i've put into it. So it's sitting in my parents' basement (i live in an apartment with no garage) waiting for somethign to happen.

I don't know what to do. I love riding the bike and I've become attached to it, but I hate trying to get it running again and running into snags every time I touch it. It's upsetting.

Is there something wrong with me that I just can't let this go?

- Dan-0

[Volker_P]

I understand that you get annoyed with a bike only running two months in two years.
The oil leak at the cylinder head is a known problem, I did that two or three times so far (14 years). You basically need to replace only the two O-rings of the oil pipes to the camshaft. If you have a suitable high-temperature grease, you may even save replacing the head gasket. At least that's the way I do it.
The fuel might leak out at the small connector pipes between the carbs. Do not tuch them! If this is the problem, you have to replace the small O-Rings at both endings of each pipe, unfortunately this means separating all carbs (and synchronization afterwards). I had that problem with the PD/piston carbs but CV might be similar.
Inserts for spark plug threads are not a problem, although I would like to habe something stronger than Helicoil there. I think this is a job for a workshop but it should not cost that much.
So which are alternatives? I think you can basically do everything yourself on the CB, so buying a newer bike will bring you soon into workshop costs. For the cost of one inspection you could probably buy a spare bike where either the engine or the frame is still good enough. That's the way I did calculations when I was a student and I still do.
I think the CB is a quite fine and not very susceptible bike, once you have it in a reasonable shape. I would not give up half way. Then some guy will buy it cheap, fix that carbs and be happy to get it.
Hey, and you can bet I would have given you another advice if you lived close to me.

[Vatch]

Volker is right on many points, individually none of the repairs is big, but collectively it seems like a royal pain in the ass. Mine certainly spent more time apart the first year I had it. Luckily I had another bike to ride at the time.

How bad is the oil leak?

Pipe #1 not getting hot may be related to the leaking gas. Can you pinpoint exactly where the gas is leaking from? I had to pull the carbs off 3 times before I got them right. Yeah, I was ready to park the bike in front of a train, but once you get her running well it is so worth it.

Other advice: don't mess with anything else like the forks at this time. Get the bike running, enjoy if for a while, then pull them apart when ready. I've owned mine for 1.75 years and will rebuild the forks this spring. I'm learning by doing one thing at a time the "projects" are more managable and you can see the benefits of your labors without going insane.

[DammitDan]

Oh, I have it running and I actually rode it for about 10 minutes. Man that relieved a lot of pressure on my brain. Not having a second bike is torture when the first one isn't working right.

The oil leak is pretty bad. It soaked about half the left side of the block in the short time I had it running. When I put my hand on it a liberal amount of oil came off (enough to coat my entire finger).

The gas does look like it's coming from those tubes that run between the float bowls. Looks like next time I'm home I'm gonna be working on that stuff. I've already rebuilt the carbs once, I just didn't want to have to dive into them again.

The problem is just getting back into the engine. I've taken off and put back on the head so many times now... Looks like I might as well just buy a whole new headgasket. That may be where my other problem is (lack of compression on #1). I'm just afraid that if I take off the head again, when I torque it down something ELSE is gonna strip out.

[Ibsen]

Did you replace the rubber pads located between the cylinder head and the cylinder head cover, and that is covering the cylinder bolts? They were causing an oil leak from my top end.

[DammitDan]

Yes I did, but they were the original pads. I was careful with them, but they still might have been screwed up.

I thought about it today, and seeing as how pipe #1 was getting hot on the first run, but the next morning it was cold could be because the cylinder was filling with oil (because the reservoir seal was bad). If the plug were fouled it would keep it from firing correctly, right? I also noticed that it was puffing pretty badly from the left side when I first started it up... I can only assume this is because the plug was being coated with oil.

I've made my decision. I'm going to buy a new gasket kit, take my time, tear down the top end again and go over it piece by piece. If necessary drill out the plug and install a helicoil, make sure the head isn't warped, take apart the carbs and reassemble after a complete cleaning. You guys helped me come to that decision

I'm really making a big job out of a bunch of small jobs, and looking at it that way it seems daunting and impossible... But if I just take them one at a time and go slowly, then it will all be done correctly.

[Vatch]

Good to hear, DD. Keep some cold beers handy and have some good, mellow tunes playing. I'd recommend some Allman Brothers or something.

[Volker_P]

If you have oil on the cooling fins from an oil leak you get a large amount of oil at the beginning from there during the engine getting warm, so your oil leak might be less dramatic than it seemed at first.
Bad rubber pads as mentioned by Ibsen may cause considerable oil leaking to the outside of the engine but if you really have oil inside the cylinder #1 it is rather a valve stem seal. As your compression is also low on #1 (how much lower?) , this might be a consequence of a (exhaust) valve problem. So when you have open all the stuff, check cylinder #1 surface for scratches (which might be the origin of low compression) and if the the valves close tight by putting the cylinder head upside down on a workbench and giving some fuel on the closed valve (It should not vanish quickly).
But maybe that #1 plug is black just because it does not work, just replace or exchange it to check out. A plug sparking perfectly outside might fail or only work temporarily under pressure and temperature inside a cylinder. Thinking of what you wrote us here, I would not be too surprised if this was your only severe engine problem. Might be also ignition cable or plug. Good luck!

[cb650]

Trial and error. First 650 I did broke rings in 1 cyl. Finished it and ran great for the summer. Secound one went great no problems. Lasted 5 yrs and 20,000 miles only $200 rebuild. Race bike next and could not get the cam chain adjuster in right. Took 3 tries then good. Funny put on all race shit to the street bike and ran same #'s during this BS.
Back to first bike. Doing it now again.
Endevor to persevere!!!


Terry