Well, the ticking didn't go away when I re-re-re-adjusted the tappets and cam chain tensioner. And the more I ride it, the worse the smoke gets. It's a steady almost clear light smoke at idle now instead of just a puff when I throttle hard.
Another thing I noticed was, while hand-cranking the motor to tighten the cam chain, there were 2 distinct very loud almost clunking sounds. I'm thinking this is the source of my ticking... but I have no idea what it could be. The motor is supposed to turn over smooth and quiet when cranking by hand, right? Maybe I didn't install everything correctly like I thought I had...
Besides the smoke and the ticking, the bike is running great. It doesn't leak any oil or gas, and throttle response is great after some tweaking with the carb screws. Should I ride the crap out of it until I can't stand the smoke anymore, or should I go ahead and break it down again? I mean, I've done it so many times now I'm sure I could do it all in a weekend. And now that the carbs are sync'd I should just be able to take em off, clean them up for the new tank and throw them back on again with a fresh tank of gas.
It's just the matter of finding that clunking sound... Oh, and does anyone know where I can buy new rings for this bike (and not spend a fortune on OEM parts)?
It's getting worse...
Re: It's getting worse...
I think sounds from cranking by hand are absolutely bad. What about your cam chain tension? Check it at the camshaft gearwheel with a screwdriver, there is an opening for access you can see after removing the top center valve cover. You can try to use a screwdriver at you ear like a stehoscope to localize the origin of the noise with some accuracy. If it is a rocker arm, you should be able to identify it by using this method directly on the four rocker arm axis endings (below the inbus screws, but no need to take them out).
How did the Nr. 4 problem develop, does it run now? Possibly a part of the broken spark plug threads got into the cylinder and got stuck in a valve or somewhere else. But it is soft material and should not be that dramatic. However a compression check may help.
The smoke is probably oil, may be through a bad valve stem seal or, in case it smokes really heavily when you run fast, a broken piston ring or a scratch in one cylinder.
How did the Nr. 4 problem develop, does it run now? Possibly a part of the broken spark plug threads got into the cylinder and got stuck in a valve or somewhere else. But it is soft material and should not be that dramatic. However a compression check may help.
The smoke is probably oil, may be through a bad valve stem seal or, in case it smokes really heavily when you run fast, a broken piston ring or a scratch in one cylinder.
I didn't know about the cam access window. I'll check that out today. I'm also gonna try unscrewing the cam tensioner from the top and bottom and pushing/pulling/prodding it until I can get it to do something. It doesn't seem to do anything now when I unscrew the adjuster nut. (the bolt should be able to move in and out by hand when the nut is missing, right?)
All 4 cylinders are firing now, I think I just had a fouled spark plug. Replaced the plugs on all 4 and all is well again. We'll see how the smoke progresses... I can't tell if it's smoking while I'm riding, so I guess that means it's not smoking heavily. I can only hope it's a bad valve seal... That means I don't have to take the head off, right?
All 4 cylinders are firing now, I think I just had a fouled spark plug. Replaced the plugs on all 4 and all is well again. We'll see how the smoke progresses... I can't tell if it's smoking while I'm riding, so I guess that means it's not smoking heavily. I can only hope it's a bad valve seal... That means I don't have to take the head off, right?
As long as the top bolt is still in, you can't move it in and out with the bolt. It will be fixed to the cylinder with the bolt on the top, and the groove at the lower end. It is the spring loaded slipper blade in front that is moveable. The adjuster bolt is mostly there to lock the front slipper blade in one position when the slack in the cam chain has been taken up.
And Volker is right, you can take off the middle valve adjustment cover and check if the chain has got any slack. If it does, try to loosen both the upper bolt for the tensioner and the adjuster bolt nut a little and then crank the engine with the starter motor a few rounds with the kill switch in off position. That might help to make the tensioner take up the slack.
And Volker is right, you can take off the middle valve adjustment cover and check if the chain has got any slack. If it does, try to loosen both the upper bolt for the tensioner and the adjuster bolt nut a little and then crank the engine with the starter motor a few rounds with the kill switch in off position. That might help to make the tensioner take up the slack.
Beautiful. It turns out the stock adjuster nut wasn't long enough (which probably means my adjuster is pretty worn), and when I just got an open-ended nut and screwed it on (pulling the bolt farther out of the block), the tick went away!
And what's even better... since I've adjusted and re-adjusted the tappets 3 times now, there is no valve rattle either. Ohhhh it sounds like butter when it runs. Better than butter... Like MELTED butter!
I'll have to make a recording of it... I think with the new exhaust I could rival Ibsen's sound
And what's even better... since I've adjusted and re-adjusted the tappets 3 times now, there is no valve rattle either. Ohhhh it sounds like butter when it runs. Better than butter... Like MELTED butter!
I'll have to make a recording of it... I think with the new exhaust I could rival Ibsen's sound
Re: It's getting worse...
Congratulations,
runnning quietly on all four, that's really good news.
Well, it probably means you forgot the copper ring
. Anyway, if it is tight there, just don't care. There is no way to read the status of the tensioner or the chain from that nut, just from sound or checking tension with a screwdriver.
You would see the smoke in your mirrors. My quite worn engine starts to develop heavy white smoke above 6000rpm. Roughly smoke at high rpm means cylinders/pistons while smoke only at low rpm/starting means valve stem seals. You may change them with the head in place, but you have to find a way to fix the valve at its uppermost position. I am not sure if turning to OT is enough, possibly also pressurized air is required or the engine could be turned upside down.
Have a look on your oil level.
First easy check is for oil in your airbox.
Good luck!
runnning quietly on all four, that's really good news.
DammitDan wrote:Beautiful. It turns out the stock adjuster nut wasn't long enough (which probably means my adjuster is pretty worn)
Well, it probably means you forgot the copper ring
. Anyway, if it is tight there, just don't care. There is no way to read the status of the tensioner or the chain from that nut, just from sound or checking tension with a screwdriver.
You would see the smoke in your mirrors. My quite worn engine starts to develop heavy white smoke above 6000rpm. Roughly smoke at high rpm means cylinders/pistons while smoke only at low rpm/starting means valve stem seals. You may change them with the head in place, but you have to find a way to fix the valve at its uppermost position. I am not sure if turning to OT is enough, possibly also pressurized air is required or the engine could be turned upside down.
Have a look on your oil level.
First easy check is for oil in your airbox.
Good luck!
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