Cheap Replacement Regulator
Posted: Sat Sep 24, 2011 8:35 pm
EDIT
I no longer use the Ford regulator due to the pinout discrepancies. I have decided to use a Dodge regulator, VR295.
When I first got my bike the field coil was shorted and the regulator was shot. I replaced the field coil but I thought there surely must be an alternative to the $100 aftermarket R/R or the extremely expensive RR from the dealer. I was right. I went to Advance Auto Parts and got a regulator for a '76 Ford F150 pickup for $15.
The regulator is almost the same size as the factory Honda Reg/Rec unit. I simply "sat" it on top of the airbox beneath where the factory reg/rec was hanging.
You must ground the case of the regulator. This should be the first connection (I recommend going straight to the negative battery terminal). Without a solid ground the regulator will quickly destroy itself.
Here is the basic wiring diagram.
Notice that the rectifier is separate from the regulator. I originally installed two single-phase bridge rectifiers (found cheap at radio shack) but since then I have upgraded to a single triple-phase rectifier.
Unfortunately I can't seem to find a "stable" link to the rectifiers on the internet. If you go to Radio Shack just ask for two 35-amp silicon rectifiers. Alternately search the 'net for a three-phase bridge rectifier. If you find something on the 'net but aren't sure if it'll work, just send me a PM and I'll try to verify asap.
There is one caveat to this solution, outlined by scottly at SOHC4...
Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on how you look at it) every time I've ordered a Ford regulator I've gotten the same one as is in the diagram above. I would say if you go to an auto-parts store and they hand you a regulator, verify that it is labeled "A F S I" and not "I A S F". If they give you the wrong one just ask for a different year until you get the right one; I haven't been able to figure out which years/models/engines the different regulators are used on. :/ The one I'm using is a Duralast pn VR730.
I did verify that my regulator has been wired according to the original diagram and it works beautifully. IMHO, worst case scenario, the regulator fries and you're out $15...
EDIT
I no longer use the Ford regulator due to the pinout discrepancies. I have decided to use a Dodge regulator, VR295.
This is the most up-to-date diagram which eliminates the 10ma parasitic draw when the bike is shut off.
I no longer use the Ford regulator due to the pinout discrepancies. I have decided to use a Dodge regulator, VR295.
When I first got my bike the field coil was shorted and the regulator was shot. I replaced the field coil but I thought there surely must be an alternative to the $100 aftermarket R/R or the extremely expensive RR from the dealer. I was right. I went to Advance Auto Parts and got a regulator for a '76 Ford F150 pickup for $15.
The regulator is almost the same size as the factory Honda Reg/Rec unit. I simply "sat" it on top of the airbox beneath where the factory reg/rec was hanging.
You must ground the case of the regulator. This should be the first connection (I recommend going straight to the negative battery terminal). Without a solid ground the regulator will quickly destroy itself.
Here is the basic wiring diagram.
Notice that the rectifier is separate from the regulator. I originally installed two single-phase bridge rectifiers (found cheap at radio shack) but since then I have upgraded to a single triple-phase rectifier.
Unfortunately I can't seem to find a "stable" link to the rectifiers on the internet. If you go to Radio Shack just ask for two 35-amp silicon rectifiers. Alternately search the 'net for a three-phase bridge rectifier. If you find something on the 'net but aren't sure if it'll work, just send me a PM and I'll try to verify asap.
There is one caveat to this solution, outlined by scottly at SOHC4...
scottly wrote:When I hooked it up on the bench according to the OP's method (after first testing it with the method I have suggested) I saw wisps of smoke within seconds from the surface-mount resistors in series with the "I" terminal. When the reg detects a non-charging condition, it applies ground to this terminal in order to light the indicator. The resistance of the lamp limits the current to as safe level. No lamp=smoke.
You MUST ground the reg case (this should be the first connection made), and you have to add a wire from the A term straight to Batt+ (this wire actually carries the current to the field, not the reference as I stated before. The reference is applied to the S term via the ignition switch.
Go by the labels on the reg, not the order, as Ford used 2 different plugs.
Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on how you look at it) every time I've ordered a Ford regulator I've gotten the same one as is in the diagram above. I would say if you go to an auto-parts store and they hand you a regulator, verify that it is labeled "A F S I" and not "I A S F". If they give you the wrong one just ask for a different year until you get the right one; I haven't been able to figure out which years/models/engines the different regulators are used on. :/ The one I'm using is a Duralast pn VR730.
I did verify that my regulator has been wired according to the original diagram and it works beautifully. IMHO, worst case scenario, the regulator fries and you're out $15...
EDIT
I no longer use the Ford regulator due to the pinout discrepancies. I have decided to use a Dodge regulator, VR295.
This is the most up-to-date diagram which eliminates the 10ma parasitic draw when the bike is shut off.