I no longer use the Ford regulator due to the pinout discrepancies. I have decided to use a Dodge regulator, VR295.
When I first got my bike the field coil was shorted and the regulator was shot. I replaced the field coil but I thought there surely must be an alternative to the $100 aftermarket R/R or the extremely expensive RR from the dealer. I was right. I went to Advance Auto Parts and got a regulator for a '76 Ford F150 pickup for $15.
The regulator is almost the same size as the factory Honda Reg/Rec unit. I simply "sat" it on top of the airbox beneath where the factory reg/rec was hanging.
You must ground the case of the regulator. This should be the first connection (I recommend going straight to the negative battery terminal). Without a solid ground the regulator will quickly destroy itself.
Here is the basic wiring diagram.
Notice that the rectifier is separate from the regulator. I originally installed two single-phase bridge rectifiers (found cheap at radio shack) but since then I have upgraded to a single triple-phase rectifier.
Unfortunately I can't seem to find a "stable" link to the rectifiers on the internet. If you go to Radio Shack just ask for two 35-amp silicon rectifiers. Alternately search the 'net for a three-phase bridge rectifier. If you find something on the 'net but aren't sure if it'll work, just send me a PM and I'll try to verify asap.
There is one caveat to this solution, outlined by scottly at SOHC4...
scottly wrote:When I hooked it up on the bench according to the OP's method (after first testing it with the method I have suggested) I saw wisps of smoke within seconds from the surface-mount resistors in series with the "I" terminal. When the reg detects a non-charging condition, it applies ground to this terminal in order to light the indicator. The resistance of the lamp limits the current to as safe level. No lamp=smoke.
You MUST ground the reg case (this should be the first connection made), and you have to add a wire from the A term straight to Batt+ (this wire actually carries the current to the field, not the reference as I stated before. The reference is applied to the S term via the ignition switch.
Go by the labels on the reg, not the order, as Ford used 2 different plugs.
Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on how you look at it) every time I've ordered a Ford regulator I've gotten the same one as is in the diagram above. I would say if you go to an auto-parts store and they hand you a regulator, verify that it is labeled "A F S I" and not "I A S F". If they give you the wrong one just ask for a different year until you get the right one; I haven't been able to figure out which years/models/engines the different regulators are used on. :/ The one I'm using is a Duralast pn VR730.
I did verify that my regulator has been wired according to the original diagram and it works beautifully. IMHO, worst case scenario, the regulator fries and you're out $15...
EDIT
I no longer use the Ford regulator due to the pinout discrepancies. I have decided to use a Dodge regulator, VR295.
This is the most up-to-date diagram which eliminates the 10ma parasitic draw when the bike is shut off.